Choose the right thread for your project
We’ve discussed the need for high quality thread before. It’s necessary to prevent your machine from acting up and causing you headaches. But how do you know if a thread is high quality? And what if you use *a lot* of thread for serging? Do you have to spend a fortune on expensive thread?
Choosing sewing thread shouldn’t be rocket science, but sometimes it feels that way. Just like with needles, there are different sizing systems in Europe and America, and the manufacturers usually put both types on a spool. So it can be really confusing. Here’s a rundown of the basic information you need to know:
You have five main types of thread to choose from: cotton, nylon, silk, polyester and cotton-wrapped polyester. And they fall in to three basic categories: general purpose, heavy duty and decorative.
For general sewing and serging you have the most choice.
Here are the basic recommendations for light to medium weight fabrics.
Cotton:
- Size 50
- Mercerized
- Good for woven cottons, rayons and linens
- Unsuitable for knits
Silk:
- Size A
- Good for sewing silks and wools
- Also good for knits
Nylon:
- Size A
- Good for sewing synthetics-woven and knit
Polyester:
- Size 50
- Good for sewing all fabrics, any fibers, knits or wovens
Cotton-wrapped Polyester:
- Size 50
- All-purpose thread for sewing any type fabric
For heavy-duty sewing on things like canvas, vinyl, leather or upholstery fabrics you need a heavier weight thread. Size 40 is the most common for heavier sewing, and you can find it in all the fibers listed above.
How to tell if your thread is damaged.
Light will cause thread to deteriorate. And the cheaper the thread, the faster it goes bad. Hold a strand up to the light and look at the fibers. If the thread is smooth and strong, you’re good to go. If you see all sorts of fuzzy bits or the thread seems rough, throw it out. It’s no good to anyone, not even for hand sewing. Store your thread in a light-proof container to keep it in good condition.
Thread conditioner can help.
You can also use thread conditioner to smooth out questionable threads. If you’re sewing by hand, just run the strand through some beeswax to lubricate. If you’re sewing by machine, especially industrial sewing, you can purchase special containers for silicone liquid thread conditioner. The container sits near your machine and the thread runs through it to be coated with the conditioner before winding its way through your machine.
Decorative threads need special care.
There are all sorts of specialty threads from sparkly metallics to shiny nylon and silk for embroidery machines. These can shred and cause all sorts of problems if you don’t pay close attention. Make sure your machine is designed to handle decorative threads. Usually, all you have to do is change to a special needle with a wider groove down the shaft. They make needles especially for metallic thread and embroidery thread. You may also need to use a stabilizer or embroidery hoop with your fabric when sewing with specialty threads.
Experiment to find your favorite threads.
Everyone has their favorite thread they buy all the time. Some people swear they never ever use cotton thread, and others do just fine with it. The truth is every sewing machine and ever fabric has a different tolerance for what type of thread it will take. So, experiment with different levels. Personally, I use a lot of thread because I do a ton of serging. After lots of experimenting, I’ve found my Viking Huskylock does just fine with the cones of thread I can buy at my local fabric store. It’s not the cheap “5 spools for a buck” thread, but it’s not the highest quality either. But my machine is happy with it, so I’m happy.
Remember that 90% of sewing machine problems happen because of the thread or needles. Before you get angry or frustrated at your machine, try a different thread. It might just save you time, money and headaches.